參加了和葡萄酒大師李志延Jeannie Cho Lee 在ÉPURE的晚餐，分享她作為葡萄酒顧問在設計ÉPURE的葡萄酒餐牌及挑選餐酒作Food Pairing 的心得。當晚的晚宴，就盡顯她的心思。平時見她好像很認真和很Technical的，但原來她也可以很風趣的。
這支Dalloyau Brut Blanc de Blancs Presidence Grand Cru 2005 年份香檳。找不到是哪個莊造的，只知道是用 Côte des Blancs內Grand Cru 的Chardonnay 造的。這支Blanc de Blancs 泡沫細滑，青蘋果李子的果味平衡了檸檬般的酸味。這道Amuses- Bouche，印象最深刻的是這芝士球Parmesan Cheese Gougère和香檳的麵包烤烘味的配搭，和兩個小撻上的鮮果也配合得很好。
Lucien Le Moine 的Bourgogne Blanc 2011 ，他們沒有自己的田地，原料都是從外面買的（他們說是葡萄汁），而且產量極低，因此被稱為 micro-négociant。Lucien Le Moine 專門挑Premier Cru 及Grand Cru 的田造酒，每年每塊田只造300-900支。這支Bourgogne Blanc混合了些Puligny Montrachet 等村酒及少量Premier Cru 的酒，雖然是用全新木桶陳釀，但果味足以抗衡木桶味，酸度適中。用來配這味鮟鱇魚生更能提鮮，而原來牛油果 X 木桶的雲尼拿味有如此有趣的口感。P.S. 原來Le Moine 的意思是” The Monk” , 配Monkfish是有心的嗎？
Lucien Le Moine 的Bourgogne Blanc 2011 ，他們沒有自己的田地，原料都是從外面買的（他們說是葡萄汁），而且產量極低，因此被稱為 micro-négociant。Lucien Le Moine 專門挑Premier Cru 及Grand Cru 的田造酒，每年每塊田只造300-900支。這支Bourgogne Blanc混合了些Puligny Montrachet 等村酒及少量Premier Cru 的酒，雖然是用全新木桶陳釀，但果味足以抗衡木桶味，酸度適中。用來配這味鮟鱇魚生更能提鮮，而原來牛油果 X 木桶的雲尼拿味有如此有趣的口感。P.S. 原來Le Moine 的意思是” The Monk” , 配Monkfish是有心的嗎？
Domaine ARLAUD做Biodynamics很用心：無殺蟲劑，無人工肥料，全人手摘，而且耕田只用兩隻馬（牠們叫Nougat 和Okapi ）。這支Chambolle-Musigny 2010 是典型的淑女型Burgundy酒，主要是車厘子，士多卑利的味道，帶一點點花香。口中單寧幼細，有香料味。配合這道慢煮有機農場蛋，令我想起Egg Benedict 上的Hollandaise Sauce ，另外那一點點礦物味餘韻和碟中的法國蝸牛也配合得恰到好處。
Vougeot和其他酒村不同，Grand Cru 佔大部分，當中各有不同的Terrior, 酒莊數量又多，酒的質素亦有參差，偶有「中伏」。不過這Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat應該不錯，因他們擁有的都是上佳的田地，好像在1980年代Domaine Leroy 在Vosne-Romanée的第一塊田就是幫Hudelots買的。此次這支Domaine Hudelot-Noellat Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2009 味道以紅果為主，一點點花香，和一點點煙燻木的香味，加上單寧柔和，用來配合鮮嫩的小牛肉相當不錯：除了不會喧賓奪主之外，更帶來一點點炭燒的風味。那片雞油菌配Pinot Noir的微微菇味更是神來之筆。
Romanée-St-Vivant 是Vosne-Romanee 的Grand Cru, 而 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
（DRC） 就是那裡最大的地主。根據以往試飲，Romanée-St-Vivant給我的印象是比較溫婉和女性化的，這支Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanée-St-Vivant 1995 也不例外，她給我的第一印象就是微微的玫瑰花香。這支酒令人驚嘆的是那濃厚但收劎的紅果味，活潑的酸度和柔和緊致的單寧，陳年潛力驚人。用烤香的Saint Nectaire芝士奶香與酒的一點點動物味互襯相當不錯，而那黑毛豬火腿則可能是咸了一點。
Fabulous dinner at Épure with Jeannie Cho Lee MW , she is also the wine advisor of the restaurant. We casually chatted from wine pairing to to the trend of wine market. She also shared with us the stories behind the wine she selected for food pairing and also the wine list she designed for the restaurant. Stay tuned to the wine and food pairing of the night.
#epure #dalloyau #blancdeblancs #amusesbouche #cheesegougere #tartletsmokedeel #tartletmulticolorradishdiced ÉPURE
The Dalloyau Brut Blanc de Blancs Presidence Grand Cru 2005 is a Grand Cru Champagne in Côte des Blancs With is made with Chardonnay. The Champagne is round and creamy its flavors of fresh pear and apple are backed by lemony acidity, feeling harmonious. It paired very well with the Amuses-Bouche, especially for the chemistry between the toastiness and the Parmesan Cheese Gougère, the acidity and freshness also matched with the two Tartlets.
Lucien Le Moine Bourgogne Blanc 2011, Lucien Le Moine is a micro-négociant who buys grapes and vinifies the wines, or buys wines and blends them. They specialized in making Premier Cru and Grand Cru in very limited-production, which is around 300-900 bottles per Cru / vineyard. The Lucien Le Moine Bourgogne Blanc is a blend of quality village wines and minor 1er Cru wines, rasied in 100% new French Oak. All new oak but the fruit flavour balanced the oak very well, it’s good matching with the monkfish carpaccio and the hass avocado. “Le Moine” VS “Monkfish” good match.
Lucien Le Moine Bourgogne Blanc 2011, Lucien Le Moine is a micro-négociant who buys grapes and vinifies the wines, or buys wines and blends them. They specialized in making Premier Cru and Grand Cru in very limited-production, which is around 300-900 bottles per Cru / vineyard. The Lucien Le Moine Bourgogne Blanc is a blend of quality village wines and minor 1er Cru wines, rasied in 100% new French Oak. All new oak but the fruit flavour balanced the oak very well, it’s good matching with the monkfish carpaccio and the hass avocado. “Le Moine” VS “Monkfish” good
match.
Domaine Arlaud seriously adopted Biodynamics use no herbicide, no insecticide, no synthesis fertilizer and He also use two horses Nougat and Okapi ,to plough domaine vineyards in order to keep the soils as healthy and alive as possible. The Chambolle Musigny 2010 is feminine Burgundian red, beautiful floal nose and there are red fruits like cherries, strawberries and rasberries on the palate, with fine tannin and some herbs with the finish. The combination of the wine and the slow cooked organic farm egg was just as good as Hallandaise Sause and the Egg Benedict. The little minerals in the finish also paired well with the escargot.
Unlike other Village, Vougeot has the highest proportion of Grand Cru in their region. The variance of producers and terrior made Vougeot a site of mixed quality. The Domaine Hudelot-Noellat got several fine plots including the 12ha in Vosne-Romanee, the the first important purchase of Domaine Leroy in 1980s.The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is impressive. Fresh, floral aromatics meld into a core of silky red fruit, tannins are there, but beautifully balanced by the textured friuit.
Romanée-St-Vivant is a Grand Cru Vineyard of Burgundy, which is situated within the commune of Vosne-Romanée. DRC owns the largest of this Grand Cru among all other producers. Romanée-St-Vivant gave me an impression of elegant and feminine, which is the same for this Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanée-St-Vivant, floral aromatics melt into intense red fruit and silky tannin, subtle yet powerful, great aging potential. The little animal tone was good pairing with the toastiness of Saint Nectaire Fermier.