有一陣子，我覺得單一葡萄做到複雜的味道才是王道。試酒多了，我發現造得好的單一葡萄酒就好像歌藝出眾歌手，而blend 的就好像合唱團。好不好視乎你在找個人的歌唱技巧還是合唱團的和聲與默契。例如這次試的阿根廷
Achaval-Ferrer酒莊， 試它的Mendoza Malbec 2014, 可以欣賞到Terroir 賦予的果味，香料味。Quimera 2013混和了Cabernet Franc , Merlot 和Cabernet Sauvignon 等不同的葡萄：有貢獻structure的, 有些花香的也有表現雪松木味的。做到互相融合各自表現而又不失和諧的，實在又值得欣賞。多謝釀酒師Gustavo Rearte帶來的美妙例子。Corney & Barrow, Asia
和上兩次試的1,100米Malbec 相比，Achaval-Ferrer 酒莊的600米已經算是低了。不過這個高度的Malbec又是另一種風味。這些樹齡至少80年的葡萄長得少長得慢，不過造出來的酒有成熟濃厚的果味、單寧十分幼滑，酸度亦算做到平衡。
阿根廷肉眼扒油脂豐富，酒的酸度足以清理而老樹造的 Finca Mirador 2010果味更加集中滿口的香料、香草及淡淡的皮革、黑朱古力、咖啡味和牛的鮮味互相襯托，更是絕配。
Compairing with the high altitude Malbec that I have tasted before, Achaval-Ferrer’s 600m vineyard is making different style of Malbec. Their wines brought us a mouthful of ripe, intense and spicy black fruit, intense but fine tannin, which was a perfect pairing with the Argentinian Rib Eye, especially the Finca Mirador 2010. Corney & Barrow, Asia
Acidity and tannin cut through the fat , when the sweet spices, dark chocolate and a little gamy flavour meet the beef’s juice on your palate, you know how perfect it is.
Young winemaker Mr Gustavo Rearte from a young winery Achaval-Ferrer with young management made really good wines from OLD vines. Which one is better? New or old; modern or traditional ; single variety or Blend, all depends on what you look for. Achaval-Ferrer Mendoza Malbec is like a soloist showing fresh fruit and all remarkable spices. Quimera is therefore an orchestra which shows the symphony between Cabernet France, Melot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
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